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Georgia-Russia Friendship Monument

Georgia-Russia Friendship Monument
This colorful stone and tile monument was built in 1983 to commemorate the bicentennial anniversary of the Treaty of Georgievsk signed in 1783 between the Russian Empire and the Kartli-Kakheti Kingdom of eastern Georgia. Under this treaty, the kingdom became a protectorate of Russia while maintaining territorial boundaries and the recognition of its reigning Bagrationi dynasty. In return, the Georgian kingdom had to swear allegiance to Russia and to support it in times of war. 

Reality Check
The Friendship Monument is a popular destination and there were a lot of visitors during my visit in May. It was impossible to get good pictures with the overwhelming number of tourists blocking the scenery. I’ve had to erase some people from the photo above to have a better appreciation of this monument.

This cylindrical monument was designed by Zurab Tsereteli (the sculptor and designer of the Chronicle of Georgia*) and the architect of the project was Georgy Chakhava. It is made of stone with twelve arches opening onto balcony with views of the Caucasus mountains and the Devil’s Valley Gorge below.

In the center of the mural is an image of a mother and son. They are holding a dove, the symbol of peace. The year 1783 is inscribed to the left of her. Below that is an image of the Holy Trinity Cathedral in Tbilisi. A quote from Rustaveli, the famous Georgian poet and author, is written below the Cathedral: “A faithful friend will help a friend. He is not afraid of trouble. He will give heart for heart. And love is a star on the way.”

The Mother figure is a recurring theme in many former Soviet Union countries. There’s a statue of the Mother of Georgia in Tbilisi. The Mother of Armenia statue on Victoria Park overlooks the city of Yerevan. The Mother of Latvia (Freedom Monument) is a monument to the struggle for freedom and independence. Russia spared it from destruction as it converted the symbolic meaning of the three stars on the monument to reflect the newly acquired Soviet Baltic Republics. Russia has its own Mother Russia statue in Volgograd. And on this Friendship monument mural, there are other mother figures particularly on the Georgian side.

Georgian narrative
This mural depicts the history and mythology of both countries. In this particular frame, we see a mother protecting her children from the chaos around her.

Georgian narrative 
This section of the mural shows Georgians moving toward the arms of a mother figure who is engulfed in golden colors symbolizing a brighter tomorrow when they can play music and dance.

Balconies overlooking the Caucasus Mountains
These arched balconies have the best views of the Caucasus mountains and Devil’s Valley Gorge below. I noticed a group of people pray in front of the mountains during my visit. It made me wonder about the spiritual significance of these mountains. What I learned is that mountains in general are viewed as man’s connection with the divine. It was atop a mountain where Moses received the tablet of the 10 commandments from God. In Greek mythology, the Olympian gods lived on Mount Olympus. In Georgia, in particular, there are several churches built in the mountains like Gergetti and Jvari. Absent the crowds, these mountains offer a quiet place to worship, meditate and reconnect with nature.

Russian Narrative
The Russian side of the monument depicts the struggles of the October Revolution and the Great Patriotic War.

Russian Narrative
On this frame, we see two women following a dove as they walk together in unison toward the future.

 View of the Friendship Monument and Caucasus Mountains from the 
Georgia Military Highway

View of Devil’s Gorge from the Friendship Monument

A bar in the mountains
I just wrote about how mountains can inspire a spiritual connection. But the Friendship Monument is not exactly where you’ll find it with loud music blaring during the day and tourists everywhere. Perhaps its best to find another spot along the Georgia Military Highway where there are no crowds. Still, this place is worth a visit.


How to get there:
The best way to get there is by car. Otherwise joining a group tour with GetyourGuide, Viator or G7 would be a good option. I took a small group tour with G7 Euro Travel and Tours in Georgia and Armenia. What I liked about this tour company is that the guides were warm and friendly, gave the group a good historical background of the places we visited and assisted me in navigating challenging inclines during the tour. I highly recommend G7.

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Images by TravelswithCharie

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