TravelswithCharie

Umbria Assisi * Ristorante Bar Metastasio - Via Metastasio, 9 Bruschetta al Tartufo (Norcia truffles sprinkled over bruschetta) Love the Braciola Erbe (grilled in aromatic herbs) House Wine Panoramic view of the valley from the terrace or eat indoors on a cold day in their rustic cavelike dining room. Gubbio ***Taverna de Lupo, Via Ansidei 6 Prima Piatti - Sfogliantina al legere salsa bianca with tartufo, ham Contorno - Timbale de asparagi e patate Seconda Piatti - Trota in lemon sauce Dolci - Assortment of biscotti Wine: Prosecco Perugia *Osteria de Gambero (Ubu Re) - behind the Duomo Antipasto - Bruschetta al tartufo Entrée - Umbrichelli al persico del Lago Trasimeno Dolci - Dolcetti delle Umbrie with Vin Santo Dining room wall is filled with modern paintings. Tuscany **Kome - Via dei Benci, 41/R, Firenze Sushi and BBQ restaurant near Santa Croce Choose from the array of sushi, gamberi or chicken fry, noodles from color plates rotating around the bar. Or you can order the fixed menu

It was an overcast day when I visited Gubbio. After sunny days, the cold November winter air claimed its due and it was reason enough to take shelter at a trattoria for some truffles and prosecco. For prima piatti I chose the sfogliantina al tartufo (Norcia truffles that are heaven). This was followed by trout from Lake Trasimeno with a timbale of asparagus and potatoes. The waiter, who lived in New York for a good many years, made sure my glass was always filled with prosecco. I had to say no to dolci (dessert) but he gave me a plateful of local cantuccini (biscotti). How could I refuse? After all that climbing to the top of the hill to see the Duomo, I thought I could afford to eat and not worry about the calories. Anyway, those hilltowns are really mountain villages. The climb is steep and the descent is as much a workout as it pulls the knees, not to mention the cobblestones that are the bane of flat feet. * * * Photo by Rosario Charie Albar

I have an ambitious plan to see as many places in Umbria and Tuscany. I made Assisi my base to explore Perugia, Gubbio, and Spoleto. But after days of climbing uphill, my feet now feel like lead. At the end of the day, I sleep for long hours to rest my body and prepare it for another day of physical training. Today I'm off to one more hilltown, Orvieto. It's a late start but now I've accepted the fact that I can't possibly see everything. Unless I stay overnight in each town, I can only cover so much. And perhaps have some time to savor the Norcia truffles which are the black gold of Italian cuisine. There was a train strike yesterday so I spent the day exploring Firenze. As many times as I've visited this city, there are still more places I haven't yet seen. I chose to return to Santa Croce to see the Pazzi Chapel by Brunelleschi and was treated to a fresco of St. Francis by Giotto and a Crucifix by Cimabue. It was bitterly cold and luckily I found KOME, a Japa