Church of the Nativity, Arbanasi
I thought Rila Monastery near Sofia, Bulgaria was amazing! Until I saw the Christian Orthodox Church of the Nativity in Arbanasi, three hours by car north of Sofia. Nothing about this stone church hints at the treasure within. Walls with vaulted ceilings are covered in frescoes of biblical scenes which date back to the 16th and 17th centuries. (By contrast, the frescoes at Rila Monastery are from the mid 19th century.) The Nativity Church frescoes were cleaned of soot during its restoration in the 1970s. I saw some taped sections of the murals where the walls are cracked. Overall, these frescoes are well preserved after centuries of existence.
The original church was constructed and completed in 1597. It had one main section that is the naos which was designated as the men’s gallery. When the church was expanded in the 1620s, they added the narthex which became the women’s gallery and a chapel dedicated to St. John the Forerunner. The chapel is linked to yet another gallery.
Tree Of Jesse*
One of the most important frescoes at the Church is the Tree of Jesse which traces the lineage of Jesus Christ. Fully depicted at the bottom of this fresco are the ancient Greek philosophers including Socrates, Aristotle, Plato, Pythagoras, Homer, Plutarch, Solon, among others.
*Image from Wikimedia Commons, public domain. (This work is in the public domain in its country of origin and other countries, specifically the United States of America, where the copyright term is the author’s life + 100 years or fewer.)
Wheel of Life/Time with zodiac signs*
The innermost section of the wheel shows the sun surrounded by four nude figures representing the four seasons. The second ring illustrates the twelve zodiac signs. The outermost circle depicts the twelve months of the year. Outside the rim are men in red robes holding the spokes of the wheel as they rise and fall. At the bottom of the wheel is a figure falling into the underworld. Seated on a throne above the wheel is God the Father. The painting of the Wheel of Life/Time is a rare feature in an Orthodox church. It is an important reminder of the ups and downs and the ephemerality of life.
Another fresco worth noting is the Last Judgement which is an important feature of Christian Orthodox mural decoration. Also of note is the iconostasis screen, the oldest in Arbanassi. Please check Wikimedia Commons or Tripadvisor for more images of the frescoes as photography is only allowed outside the Church.
Church of the Nativity
When the Ottoman Empire suppressed the Tarnovo uprising in the late 16th century, they didn’t take kindly to the religious leaders who took part in the uprising. The Orthodox priests were compelled to leave Veliko Tarnovo and they decided to reestablish the Bulgarian Orhodox Church in Arbanasi. The Church of the Nativity is the oldest of several churches they built in the town. There were restrictions to the height of any church constructed during that era. You’ll see that Nativity Church has no dome nor belfry. Notice the buttresses on the outer walls which were added during the restoration in the 1970s.
Don’t skip visiting Arbanasi when you are in Veliko Tarnovo. There are no crowds to speak of in this village in the hills. It’s just the place for some peaceful walks while sightseeing.
How to get there:
From Sofia: please check rome2rio.com for options to get there. Arbanasi is a few minutes from Veliko Tarnovo so you might want to stay overnight or longer in this area to visit its many attractions.
From Bucharest: I took a day trip to Veliko Tarnovo and Arbanasi from Bucharest. As a bonus, I had the chance to see the Danube River while crossing into Bulgaria. I went with Nicolas Experience Tours and you can read my review under Travel Tips and Resources. If you prefer to go with a group, you can check the tours offered by getyourguide.com.
Currency in Bulgaria: Euro
Entrance fee: There is a small fee to enter the church. Charge cards are accepted.
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Images by TravelswithCharie