Church of the Beheading of St. John, Arbore Monastery
Tucked away in the northeastern corner of Romania lies the enchanting region of Bucovina, home to a treasure trove of stunning monasteries. The Painted Monasteries of Bucovina, collectively a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are a testament to the region's rich history, spirituality and artistic genius.
One of the most visited monasteries in Bucovina is Voronet. It was commissioned by Stefan the Great, Voivode of Moldova and one of its most admired rulers. Moldova was a medieval state that once encompassed parts of present-day Romania, Ukraine, and Moldova. Voronet was built in 1488 to commemorate his victory over the Ottoman Turks in the Battle of Vaslui and it was miraculously completed in three months time. Succeeding princes of Moldova continued the construction of more magnificent monasteries. The exterior walls of these structures were adorned with intricate frescoes, depicting biblical scenes, saints, and mythological creatures. These vibrant paintings were not only an expression of the region's deep-rooted Orthodox faith but also a means of teaching the Scriptures to the faithful.
Eight monasteries make up the Painted Monasteries of Bucovina, each with its own unique character: Voronet, Arbore, Humor, Moldovita, Sucevita, Patrauti, Suceava and Probota. In this post, I'll highlight the four monasteries I had the chance to visit. We'll start with Arbore which is the most unassuming of the four but which charmed me the most.
Fresh Exterior from Arbore Monastery
Detail of fresco from Arbore Monastery
Arbore was founded in 1503 by Luca Arbore, an advisor of Stefan the Great. The church has no bell tower because it wasn't built by a prince. But it has a magnificent fresco of Genesis, the first book of the Bible. The frescoes were painted forty years after the completion of the church, by Dragos Coman, a muralist from Romania. The outdoor frescoes are not in a well preserved state as you can see from these images because at one point, the church had no roof and the structure was exposed to the elements and vegetation pervaded its walls.
Church of the Beheading of St. John, Arbore Monastery
Arbore is dedicated to St. John the Baptist. St. John and Luca Arbore with his sons share the same tragic end. They were beheaded. Arbore was asked to renounce his faith and when he refused, he and his sons were beheaded. Arbore and his sons are buried in the church.
Fresco, Arbore Monastery
I found this recurring theme of God holding people in the palm of his hand in various churches. It's a beautiful reminder that we are in His hands.
Altar Screen, Arbore Monastery
Outdoor altar, Arbore Monastery
Church of the Ressurection, Sucevita Monastery
The Church of the Resurrection was the last of twenty-two painted churches in the Bucovina region. Two of its frescoes, Ladder to Paradise and Last Judgment, have distinguished this church from its peers in the region.
Ladder to Paradise
Ladder to Paradise, detail
Red winged angels guide the righteous to heaven while sinners fall through the rungs where gloating demons welcome them.
Narthex of Sucevita Church with Last Judgment fresco
The red river is the way to hell and we can see people falling into its depths while on the left of the door we see the saints entering the kingdom of heaven.
Sucevita Altar Screen
Most of the monasteries in Bucovina are surrounded by defensive walls, often with watch towers. This was to protect the monasteries from repeated Ottoman raids.
Church of the Annunciation, Moldovita Monastery
The Church of the Annunciation was founded in 1532 by Petru Rares, the illegitimate son of Stephen the Great. It has some of the best preserved frescoes which were painted in 1537.
Main Portal, Moldovita Monastery
These tall arches are one of the distinctive features of Moldovita.
Notice the hand of God below the throne of the Holy Spirit.
 The Church at Voronet is distinguished for the special blue color backdrop of its frescoes. It's called Voronet blue. I've written a whole article about it at this link: https://www.travelswithcharie.com/2024/04/voronet-monastery.html |
The Painted Monasteries of Bucovina are vibrant masterpieces from the 15th and 16th centuries that continue to inspire and awe visitors from around the world. It offers a glimpse into a fascinating chapter of Romanian history and a culturally rich region of the country.
How to get there:
If you prefer to go on your own, there are several options you can take: bus, train or plane. The nearest airport is Suceava Airport (SCV). Once you get there, you'll need a car or taxi to go from one monastery to the next. The monasteries are only a few miles from each other but it will take time to use public transportation. Alternatively, you can join a tour group in Bucovina. I took a private tour of the painted monasteries and attractions in the Bucovina region with Nicolas Experience Tours. The tour started in Bucharest at the end of September so there were fewer tourists at the monasteries which allowed us to marvel and learn more about the frescoes at a leisurely pace.
Where to stay:
Best Western
4 Bucovina Ave
Guru Humorului
The Best Western is one of the bigger and older hotels in the Bucovina region. It is conveniently located within a short distance from several monasteries.
Attraction you shouldn't miss in Bucovina:
The Painted Eggs Museum of Lucia Condrea
Stay connected
*****
Images by TravelswithCharie