Candombe, Carlos Páez Vilaró
Uruguay's Carnaval is a spellbinding experience that showcases the country's rich Afro-Uruguayan cultural heritage. While it may not be as widely known as its Brazilian or Argentine counterparts, Uruguay's Carnaval has its own distinct flavor and charm. What is also not widely known is that Uruguay’s Carnaval is the longest celebration of its kind in the world. It starts in late January and continues to March every year.
The Carnaval celebrated in Uruguay has deep Afro-Uruguayan roots dating back to the 18th century when enslaved Africans brought their musical and dance traditions to the country. These traditions live on in the annual celebration of Carnaval featuring impassioned drumming, engaging dance performances and dazzling costumes.
The pulse of Uruguay's Carnaval is the Candombe rhythm, a style of music and dance that originated in the African diaspora. The pulsating beat of the Candombe drums echoes through the streets, inspiring spontaneous dance parties. Vilaró captures the soul, colors and dynamism of the Candombe in the painting above (which is on display at the Museum).
The two essential elements of Uruguay's Carnaval are the Murgas and Comparsas. Murgas are satirical theater groups that perform skits and songs which often make social commentaries. Murgas perform on a tablado (stage) set up in various neighborhoods in Montevideo throughout the Carnaval season. Comparsas, on the other hand, are lively dance troupes that showcase intricate choreography and stunning costumes.
The Carnaval Museum has an enviable collection of costumes worn by the dancers and musicians at Carnaval celebrations through the years.
The Mona Lisa is painted (?) on the fabric of this costume.
Roaring 20s costumes in white and a peacock inspired floor length costume.
Drummers decked out in jester-like costumes.
Listen to candombe drum beats here: https://youtu.be/K8tvd-DydYI?feature=shared
Big Heads
Big heads were first seen at Carnaval celebrations in the early 20th century. They are made of papier-mâché and sit on the shoulders of the person wearing them.
Attending one of the street performances of Carnaval in Uruguay is a fun way to learn and appreciate the traditions of Afro-Uruguayan culture. But if you’re unable to come during the Carnaval season, the Carnaval Museum is the next best thing to being there.
How to get there:
Carnaval Museum
Rambla 25 de Agosto de 1825 (across from the port)
https://www.museodelcarnaval.org/visita-el-museo/ for hours and entrance fee.
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Images by TravelswithCharie