Ananuri Castle Fortress
I knew the road to Gergeti would be long. But I wanted to go and see the Holy Trinity Church which had captivated me when I saw photos of it with the Caucasus Mountains in the distance. I’m glad I went as the day trip proved to be a surprising and memorable experience. The images I’ve posted here will confirm that.
On the way to Gergeti, we stopped at Ananuri which was the seat of the Dukes of Aragvi from the 13th century. A rival duchy, the Shanshe of Ksami, attacked them in the 18th century and massacred the Aragvi clan. Four years later the Shanshe were killed during a revolt by local peasants. These same peasants invited King Teimuraz II to be their ruler. But peace was short lived and the peasants revolted once more in 1746. With the help of the King of Kakheti, Teimuraz II was able to quell the peasant rebellion. The fortress remained in use until the early 19th century.
Watchtower and the Aragvi River
There are two churches at the fortress. The Church of the Mother of God is the bigger of the two and was built in 1689. The older Church of the Virgin was constructed in the first half of the 17th century and contains the graves of the Aragvi dukes.
Altar screen of the Church of the Mother of God at Ananuri
Fresco from the 17th century
Ananuri Fortress is on the tentative list for admission to the World Heritage Site program.
Note the colors of the river. The Tetri Aragvi or White River flows down from Gudauri. It is pale in color because it carries limestone and mineral deposits. The Shavi Aragvi or Black River travels from the north east and its water is black because it contains volcanic sediments. The confluence of the rivers is in Pasanauri where they flow south towards the Zhinvali Reservoir which provides hydroelectric power and water to Tbilisi and the surrounding area. The rivers flow in parallel and do not mix because of the “densities and temperatures of the water”. “Never shall the twain mix?”
The Georgia Military Highway is the gateway to the northern part of Georgia and to the border with Russia. There are sections of it that are rough and slow going and as I understand, experiences closures due to weather related disruptions. Which is why construction of the twenty-three mile long Kvesheti-Kobi Road is ongoing to ease heavy traffic on this highway. With the completion of this bypass road, smoother traffic flow is expected.
This colorful concrete and tile monument was built in 1983 to commemorate the bicentennial anniversary of the Treaty of Georgievsk signed in 1783 between the Russian Empire and the Kartli-Kakheti Kingdom of eastern Georgia. Under this treaty, the kingdom became a protectorate of Russia while maintaining territorial boundaries and the recognition of its reigning Bagrationi dynasty. In return, the Georgian kingdom had to swear allegiance to Russia and to support it in war.
The Friendship Monument is a popular destination and there were a lot of visitors during my visit. It was impossible to get good pictures with the overwhelming number of tourists blocking the scenery. I’ve had to erase some people from the photo above for a cleaner perspective.
Panoramic view of Devil’s Valley Gorge and Caucasus mountains
View of the Caucasus Mountains from the Friendship Monument
Gergeti Trinity Church (Holy Trinity Church)
Sitting high above the mountain at 7,120 feet and only 9 miles from the Russian Border, the Holy Trinity Church is a Christian Orthodox church that has been around since the 14th century.
Interior of Holy Trinity Church
Altar Screen
Silver Icon of Mary, Mother of God with Child Jesus and Cross offerings
A gilded icon of Mary and Child Jesus found in a niche outside the Church
Watch out for the low clearing of some doors at the Trinity Church complex.
Caucasus Mountains and Mount Kazbek
We encountered blustery winds at the top of the mountain in May. At times, it was a challenge to go around the perimeter of the church and taking selfies without messy hair and flapping coats. Make sure you are wearing something warm when you visit.
A different view of the mountains and alpine valley.
This is the ramp to the parking lot where our white Delica taxi was waiting to take us back to the bottom of the mountain. The taxi is the only way to get to Trinity Church unless you’re hiking. The road to the church is narrow, steep, rough in some spots and borders a precarious cliff. These taxi drivers are the experts in navigating this winding road in their 4-wheel drive vehicles. It costs 25 lari per person (in May 2025) which was our rate for a group of four.
View of the village of Stepantsminda (formerly Kazbegi)
and the Greater Caucasus Mountains
Stepantsminda means St. Stephan. Its name was changed during the Russian Empire in the 19th century when it was called Kazbegi after the local lord (who was the son of Kazi-beg) and who was loyal to the Russian regime. It reverted to its old name in 2006. Beyond these mountains is Russia.
A village south of Gergeti
If you’re planning to visit Georgia for the first time, I would definitely recommend including a tour to Gudauri and Gergeti. The Caucasus mountains are calling.
How to get there:
If you prefer to go on your own, check these options here: https://www.rome2rio.com/map/Tbilisi/Chronicle-of-Georgia
I took a small group tour with G7 Euro Travel and Tours in Georgia and Armenia. What I liked about this tour company is that the guides were warm and friendly, gave the group a good historical background of the places we visited and assisted me in navigating challenging inclines at both Ananuri and Gergetti. I highly recommend G7.
Best time to go:
I visited in May and there was still snow on the side of the road in some areas and in the mountains. It was warm in Tbilisi but it was cold up in the mountains. Be prepared for the change in temperatures. Some visitors prefer to come in winter to enjoy skiing and other winter activities.
Currency: Lari or Gel. $1.00 = 2.70 Georgian lari (as of July 28, 2025)
Electrical outlet: Type C and F. 220V/50Hz
Where to stay: Ibis Styles Old Town is on 39 Kote Abkhazi Street in Tbilisi. It is surrounded by restaurants, cafés, grocery stores and souvenir shops. It is a short walk to Freedom Square and Meidani Square, both hubs of activity in Old Tbilisi. My room had a terrific view of the iconic Mother of Georgia statue and the steeples of churches on Sololaki hill. The hill is all lighted up at night, a sight to see.
What to eat: We were lucky to have stopped in Pasanauri to try their famous dish khinkali. Read about it here: https://www.travelswithcharie.com/2025/06/cool-georgian-bites.html
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Images by TravelswithCharie