Italian Riviera by Mario Borgoni*
Memories of my first visit to Portofino linger like a favorite scent. We were driving from the south of France and across the border to Italy, ducking in and out of tunnels which stretches on for miles, when we got stuck inside one due to an accident that snarled traffic along the coast of Genoa. It was a big relief when the line of cars finally started moving and we could breathe fresh air again.
Today it’s different. I’m taking a public bus for the short ride to Portofino from Santa Margherita Ligure. Along the way, the driver honks the horn just before a blind curve and he repeats this at every bend to warn oncoming cars of our approach. It’s important that he sounds the horn often on these hairpin turns so drivers can stick to their side of this pencil-thin road.
After the driver deposits us behind the Piazetta, I walk to the dock to get a good view of the sheltered cove. It is as I remember it. Waterfront cafés and restaurants, boats bobbing in the harbor, brightly painted houses, the yellow church of San Marino and the forested hills at its back door. I find Portofino as attractive as ever.
The hike to Brown Castle above the wharf is a good workout for leg muscles. On the way up, I peer through iron fences to get a glimpse of private gardens and admire the different flora. Mr. Yeats Brown was a British consul and former owner of the castle. He planted two cypress trees on the property, one for him and one for his wife. It reminds me of the Lone Cypress tree in Pebble Beach. Inside the castle is an exhibit of photographs of celebrities who have visited the Italian Riviera towns, ushering the influx of tourists to the area.
There are great views of the colorful village below from the garden. It can easily use up a roll of film or a memory stick. Halfway downhill is the Church of San Giorgio. It opens onto a small square overlooking the Gulf of Tigullio. It’s possible to hike all the way to San Fruttuoso along the coastal trail or across Monte Portofino (which soars to 611 meters or 2004.5 ft.) to see its famous Benedictine abbey.
Returning to the harbor, I pass a sculpture garden on the side of a hill. It’s visible from the marina and complements its surroundings. I wander down narrow alleys and stop to inspect some striking watercolor canvasses and antique Russian icons that are drawing interested buyers. On the waterfront are chic stores which appear to be recent additions.
Portofino has been attracting the yachting crowd since the early days. Then the smaller cruise ships dropped anchor a few miles offshore. I remember the guests who sat at the cafés dressed in white slacks and shirts that barely concealed golden tans and looking very much like Hollywood celebrities behind those dark sunglasses. Dinner alfresco with soft candlelight filled the night air with romance. This was and still is the appeal of Portofino, so tiny you can walk around the village and comb the hills in an hour or two.
Some critics say that Portofino has sold out. It's no longer a fishing village but an elegant haven for the privileged. If selling out means clean public restrooms, freshly painted houses, litter-free streets and name boutiques instead of tacky, souvenir shops, then yes, Portofino has sold out. But there is no overdevelopment. The natural environment remains unspoiled. The village retains a relaxed ambience and the locals are friendly. The thoughtful conveniences offered by Portofino adds to a memorable travel experience. It is the equivalent of saying Benvenuto (Welcome).
Getting there:
There are buses from Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino with pick-up stops at the train station and at the center of Santa Margherita. It is a 20-minute ride and costs one euro.
Where to stay:
The 3-star Hotel Terminus is right next to the train station in Santa Margherita Ligure. The proprietor, Angelo, has friends all over the U.S. because he takes good care of his guests and serves delicious and generous meals. His fax # is 011-39-0185-282-546.
*Image from Wikimedia Commons considered to be in the public domain in the U.S. It is an advertising poster by Italian artist, Mario Borgoni.
**This article was published in the Manila Bulletin USA in the Jan. 6-12, 2005 issue.
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