Casapueblo, Punta Ballena
Just a few minutes from the popular beach destination of Punta del Este is Casapueblo which sits on the edge of a hill overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. If you’re staying at the hotel, then you’re in for a big treat. Imagine the view of the blue ocean made more dazzling by the sun. But that’s not all. There’s also an art gallery and museum next door which displays the artistic works of Carlos Páez Vilaró who also designed Casapueblo, his permanent home and studio.
Casapueblo reminds one of the Greek isles at first glimpse. But it isn’t that simple. Look closely and you’ll find the influence of Gaudi in the architecture which Vilaró himself built with no plans. There are no straight lines. The interior has many passages and narrow stairs leading to enchanting rooms, everyone of which is different from the other.
The signature pointed concrete posts of Casapueblo.
An interesting vignette of paintings highlighting an interior space in the museum.
Ceramic plates by Pablo Picasso
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Notice the curving lines and the rooftops with its pointed concrete posts. Vilaró likened his house to a hornero’s (ovenbird) nest. He slowly expanded the original wooden box that was his studio and added his residence and guest rooms. Today, Casapueblo is a hive of white dwellings spilling into the sea, always open to the sun. The artist dedicated Casapueblo to his son, Carlos Miguel, who was a passenger of the infamous flight that was lost in the Andes Mountains in 1972. His son was one of 16 survivors and was rescued 70 days later.
During his residence in Vallauris, Pablo Picasso was inspired to create ceramic art. Having met Picasso and observed him working, Vilaró created his own version of pottery (seen above) which are displayed throughout Casapueblo.
The Mermaid
This is one of my favorite corners of the Museum. It’s so unexpected and whimsical and the perfect backdrop for one of the terraces overlooking the ocean. The terrace is aptly called, Terraza de la Sirena, Terrace of the Mermaid.
Museo Taller a Casapueblo
The Museum holds a substantial collection of the artist’s works including sculptures, pottery, paintings and letters. In the background is a painting called, Mi Buenos Aires Querido, the original of which is a mural he created in 1989 in Buenos Aires. The famous Argentinian singer, Carlos Gardel, dominate the painting along with athe icons of representative of Buenos Aires like the tango, Maradona, the obelisk and the Cabildo. It’s fun to explore the various display rooms and discover the surprises it holds.
To understand the artist better, it’s important to know his views on color. Here’s what the colors meant to Vilaró.
Comparsa, 1950, oil on canvas
This work represents the artist’s first foray into the life of Candombe Montevidiano. Candombe is a folk dance usually performed at Carnival by descendants of liberated African slaves in Uruguay. UNESCO has listed the candombe as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Candombe en el Mediomundo, 1955, Reproduction
Vilaró traveled extensively during his time and lived in Buenos Aires for fourteen years. His works were influenced by his environment as can be seen from his Candombe and African periods, his European journey and exposure to the works of contemporary artists and the murals he produced in Argentina, Brazil, Africa and in Washington D.C. at the Pan American Union Building.
La Equilibrista (Tightrope Walker), oil on canvas, 1973
La Rebelión del Bosque (Rebellion of the Forest)
This clock harkens back to the theme of Dali’s Persistence of Memory. Notice the tiles that frame the glass door to the right.
Sol, 2014, oil on canvas
The numerous paintings of the sun by Vilaró is not surprising when the sun shines brightly almost year round on his cliffside studio in Punta Ballena. According to Vilaró, “The sun is my engine. It is my oldest friend. It greets me daily when it leaves the mountains behind and says goodbye at the end of the afternoon when it leaves to illuminate other places.”
Carlos Páez Vilaró with Pablo Picasso
Picasso generously gave Vilaró over 25 pieces of his ceramic art after the artist expressed he would love to have all of the exhibited ceramic works by Picasso.
La Ceremonia al Sol
There’s a cafeteria at Casapueblo which is the best place to view the sunset. Everyday a Ceremony to the Sun is held at the cafeteria and includes the words written by Vilaró himself. Here’s an excerpt from the reading for La Ceremonia Al Sol:
“Desde mis terrazas te veo llegar cada tarde como un aro de fuego, que jamás se detiene, que viene rodando a través de los años, puntual, infaltable, animando mi filosofia desde el dia que soñe con levantar Casapueblo y puse entre las rocas mi primer ladrillo.”
Translation:
“From my terraces I can see you arrive every afternoon like a ring of fire that never stops, that comes rolling in through the years, punctual, infallible, energizing my philosophy since the day I dreamt of building Casapueblo among the rocks with my first bricks.”
Museum Information:
Museum is open daily. Check their website for hours. There is an entrance fee. Make sure to ask for a senior’s discount if you are one. https://casapueblo.com.uy/
How to get to Punta Ballena from Montevideo
Renting a car would be the best way to explore the Atlantic coast of Uruguay. But you can also take the bus to Maldonado or Punta del Este from the main bus terminal in Montevideo. It takes about 2 1/2 hours in a clean, modern and comfortable bus to reach Punta del Este and costs around USD$10.00 one way. I was impressed by how easy it was to take the bus. There are several bus companies at the terminal where you can purchase your ticket. Buses leave every 30 minutes or so. The bus conductor will inform you of your stop if you ask him. This is also the way to get to Colonia del Sacramento, the well preserved historic town in southwest Uruguay. From the bus terminal in Maldonado or Punta del Este, you can take a bus, Uber or taxi to Punta Ballena. Maldonado is closer to Punta Ballena. The bus station in Punta del Este is across the beach where the famous sculpture Los Dedos is located.
COT Bus
Bus Terminal, Punta del Este
Images by TravelswithCharie
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