Monument to the Bandereis, Victor Brecheret, 1954, granite
Who were the bandeirantes? They were 16th-17th century prospectors who traveled from Sáo Paulo to the hinterlands of Brazil in search of gold. While on these expeditions, they enslaved and killed indigenous people as well as recaptured African slaves who had escaped to the interior. What they did do to earn this monument was to increase the dominion of São Paulo to areas beyond that established by the 1494 Treaty of Tordesillas.
The monument has been a sore issue with the indigenous people and it came to a head in 2013 when they demonstrated in front of it and spray painted the monument with the words “bandeirantes assassinos”. Despite this strong message, there has not been much change on the part of the government to address the issue. In 2016, the monument was doused with red paint and graffiti. The new Mayor at that time took steps to curb these attempts to deface the monument which he described as the “symbol of the city”. The Bandereis monument is 144 feet long, 28 feet wide and 36 feet high at its peak. It weighs 50 tons and will not be dislodged from its position in front of Ibirapuera Park anytime soon. Most importantly, Victor Becheret who created this monument is revered in Brazil and this work has been registered as a historical landmark in São Paulo. But the protests have changed people’s perception of what the monument represents.
Nossa Senhora do Brasil
Amazing is an overused word but this church, Nossa Senhora do Brasil, is truly amazing. I didn’t know much about it except for the mention of its beautiful tiles on a blogpost that I read. Yes, the tiles are indeed stunning but the ceiling is another story. Read all about my impressions of the South American Sistine Chapel here:
https://www.travelswithcharie.com/2024/06/the-sistine-chapel-of-sao-paulo.html
Ibirapuera Park
Another of those projects launched for the 400th year anniversary of the City of São Paulo, Ibirapuera Park is one of the largest urban parks in Latin America with an area size of 390 acres. There are several museums in the park including the Afro Brasil Museum and the Museum of Modern Art, a planetarium and a concert hall. A number of cultural events and trade shows are hosted at the park. Several buildings were designed by the famous architect Oscar Niemeyer which together with the park has been listed as national landmarks.
Laocoön, Ibirapuera Park
Japanese Pavilion and Garden, Ibirapuera Park
There is no entrance fee to the park but there is an entrance fee to the Japanese Pavilion which allows the visitor to stroll its grounds and sit on the terrace overlooking a koi pond. The garden is a haven of serenity and I can get used to the peaceful ambience until the next visitors make themselves heard.
The pavilion was originally built in Japan of Japanese materials and broken up to pieces for shipping to Săo Paulo where it was reassembled in time for the 400th anniversary of the city. It is a symbol of friendship between Brazil and Japan.
Hina dolls
Hina dolls are displayed during the celebration of Hinamatsuri or Girl’s Day in Japan. The dolls include the Emperor and Empress who are seated at the top of the tiered stand with their attendants and musicians below.
Japanese Bridge
The bridge is outside the Japanese pavilion so it’s free to check out.
Metropolitan Cathedral of Our Lady Assumption and St. Paul
Guide books warn tourists to be careful while in this area. And at first glance you’ll see a lot of hangers-on around the plaza directly in front of the Cathedral. However, there is a noticeable police presence here. So it’s safe to visit. And should not be missed.
The Catedral da Sé (other name of the Metropolitan Cathedral) was consecrated in 1954, approximately 41 years after construction began in 1913. It was made ready for the 4th centenary anniversary of the City of São Paulo. The twin towers were not completed in time for the celebration. It was only completed in 1967.
Church of São Gonçalo
In contrast to the Sé Cathedral next door, St. Gonçalo Church is small and intimate. It has an opulent Baroque altar that reminds you of colonial churches around the world where Spain and Portugal laid their claim of the land.
Interior, São Gonçalo
Street Art by Mauro Neri
There are a lot of urban art in São Paulo to discover. I'm posting three murals here. Some are statements in itself like the image above. It says, Veracidade, Truth. Pode haber igualidade, there can be equality. With eyes wide open and looking up, is she searching or hoping for equality?
Here’s a quote from Neri about his works: “ I think I’ll make them look up. It will be a way of distinguishing myself and it’ll have to do with this philosophical existential approach that I have, right?”. Neri is credited for spreading the “see the city” invitation to Săo Paulo. Mural is on Rua da Consolação.
Ari Uru Eu Wau Wau, Thiago Mundano
This mural of an indigenous leader killed in 2020 was painted by the Brazilian artist, Mundano, who is a well known social, political and environmental activist. He used paint made from ashes recovered from fires in the Amazon for this painting. On Praça Dr. João Mendes, at the back of the Se Cathedral.
Ave Grande (Big Bird), TOT PDF Crew
On Rua da Consolação.
Sunset treat on my last day in Brazil
Where to stayIbis Hotel
Rua da Consolação
ihg.com
Located around the corner from the main avenue, Paulista. There are restaurants, grocery stores and boutiques in the neighborhood. It is also close to the Metro Station.
How to get around
Public transportation in São Paulo is well developed with buses and the metro providing good coverage of the city. I chose to use Uber during my stay as it was convenient and inexpensive. I also used Uber from the airport to the city center.
Where to eat
The largest Japanese population outside of Japan is in São Paulo. This means you’ll find a lot of Japanese restaurants throughout the city. I also ate at a lanchonete which is a cafeteria or snack bar where they serve a variety of dishes just like a restaurant. After walking all afternoon at Ibirapuera Park, I had late lunch at the terrace of Sabiá do Parque. The staff here are attentive, friendly, speak English and Spanish (aside from Portuguese) and the food is good. Sitting outside surrounded by trees is a plus.
What to shop for
Havaiianas or Ipanema flip flops are much cheaper here than in other countries because they are Brazilian brands. You’ll find these slippers in many shops including some grocery stores and at their main branch in São Paulo. So stock up for your next beach destination.
Stay connected
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Images by TravelswithCharie