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Essaouira: White, blue and wind-swept

Essaouira Fishing Port
The drive to Essaouira stretched for miles along a well paved highway. I struggled to stay awake after an early morning start. And I was determined not to miss the tree climbing goats along the highway. Alas I didn’t see a single one and I found out later why. The government had stopped this practice of propping these goats up on trees for photo opportunities. So onward we went until we arrived at the argan oil shop which frankly was a huge relief for me. Watching the women demonstrate how argan oil is extracted from seeds was fascinating and I got to taste it with delicious local bread.

Fresh catch at the port
When we arrived at Essaouira Beach, I met my guide who took me around the peaceful harbor and medina. We walked for an hour as the guide narrated the history of Essaouira. We started at the harbor and checked out the famous blue boats that deliver seafood in the morning. We got there in time to see the catch of the day. The white boats are for commercial fishing and are docked farther out to sea as the port is shallow and can only hold the small blue boats.

Bab el Marsa 
This is the entrance gate to the Medina from the port. It was built in the 18th century by French and Moroccan engineers. There are symbolic characters above the arched entrance: the star of David, the Christian shell and the Islamic crescent. These cultures have coexisted peacefully in Essaouira for generations.

Rugged coastline overlooking the Atlantic Ocean

Place Moulay Hassan

White-washed buildings overlook Skala de la Ville (fortress walls in the Medina)

Skala de la Ville or Rempart Mogador (Fortress)
The Medina of Essaouira is an 18th century seaport fortress town designed in the European military architectural style. It was inscribed in 2001 as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for the harmonious blend of European and Arabo Muslim architectural aesthetics. 

Steps to the ramparts
Remember Game of Thrones? The Skala was the setting for Astapor in Season 3, Episode 1. I’ve never watched Game of Thrones and I’ve only learned about this filming location by chance. What an accidental find!

Shops in the Medina and typical blue shutters and doors

Inlay tables and frames

A typical white-washed house with balconies and doors painted in blue

Colorful shop advertising vegetable seeds, oils, spices as well as ceramics

Leather store

Terracotta in contemporary designs

Traditional Pottery
I wanted to buy the tiny sauce plates, so pretty and colorful. But somehow I let go. After years of taking home all kinds of souvenir items, I realized how much stuff I have and at this point, I just want to size down. This doesn’t mean I didn’t buy anything. I actually bought argan oil for my hair and nazar silver jewelry for protection. 

Essaouira Beach and Promenade
Essaouira beach is an expansive beach on the Atlantic coast great for kitesurfing and windsurfing. It’s rather windy on the beach so it’s best to find a lounger with a canopy. Swim only in designated areas. 

View of Essaouira

Camel Rides
I liked Essaouira for many reasons. The Medina does not overwhelm. I felt I could navigate it with confidence. The whole area can be explored leisurely on foot in a couple of hours. Food choices are great especially for people who love fresh seafood. The Skala de la Ville is not only a historical attraction, it also provides great views of the Atlantic. The coastline changes dramatically from well combed beaches to rugged and rocky shores. And the promenade is a tempting choice to spend late afternoons walking along the seashore. 

How to get to Essaouira from Marrakech:
Elena arranged for my private day trip to the seaside city of Essaouira. My driver took me first to the women’s cooperative that sells argan oil. (This was optional.) In Essaouira, the driver got me a guide who took me around the port and Medina. The drive to Essaouira from Marrakech took three hours each way. Elena has worked in the hotel industry for many years and can arrange a private tour or day trip as well as find a beautiful riad for you. She was well recommended to me by a good friend. Contact Elena on WhatsApp at 212 695 462055. I have to say that I had a great time in Marrakech and Essaouira, thanks in large part to Elena’s help.

Where to shop:
Maalem Ali, N° 03,  Complexe Bin Al Aswar
Maalem Ali specializes in silver jewelry. You’ll be able to see their artisans craft the jewelry at the shop. I was looking for a pendant with nazar (the blue-eye shaped amulet) and found one. I wanted two of the pendant and the staff tried to find me a similar one and even make me a copy. Instead, I found a delicate bracelet with a nazar. I came home happy with a pendant and a bracelet.

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Images by TravelswithCharie

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Location: Essaouira, Morocco

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