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Zagreb - City of Museums


Church of St. Mark’s, Zagreb, Croatia
Church of St. Mark’s
Zagreb is a city of museums. The Museum of Broken Relationships tops the list of the most intriguing place to visit in the capital city of Croatia. And I must say that I had some of my best meals in Europe in Zagreb. Here are some highlights from my recent visit. 

The 13th century Church of St. Mark’s bears the coat of arms of Zagreb (3 towers) and the medieval emblem of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia. This colorful tiled roof was constructed in 1880.

Ban Josip Jelačić
Count Josip Jelačić was Croatias’s ban (governor) from 1848 and 1859. He was the military leader of Croatia under the Habsburg Empire and during the Hungarian revolution (1848-1849).

 Jelačić Square
This is a busy square leading to the main shopping street of the city. There are lots of outdoor cafés here and the funicular to the old town or if you prefer, the stairs to St. Mark’s Church and the Museum of Broken Relationships are close by.

The high reliefs of this building caught my eye. I wonder if the gutted sections also had the same stone carvings?

Kumica Barica
Kumica Barica is a homage to the hardworking women who came to sell their goods at the outdoor market. The statue stands above the stairs leading to Dolac market.  It was sculpted by Stjepan Gračan. Bistro Na Dolcu is to the left of the statue.

Dolac Market
One section of Dolac market is occupied by stalls with locally handcrafted goods and souvenirs. A larger section of the market is reserved for fruit and produce stands.

Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
The twin spires of the Neo Gothic Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary is visible in many parts of the city. Rising to 108 meters, one of the spires was damaged by an earthquake in March 2020.

This clock outside the Cathedral stops at 7:03 which was the time the earthquake of 1880 hit Zagreb.

Nikola Tesla
The inventor of the first alternating current electrical system, Nikola Tesla, was born in what is modern Croatia today.

Who would have thought that there’s a museum dedicated to hangovers? Or to broken relationships? Read more about the latter in a separate post. 

Colorful buildings line side streets in the upper town.

One of many pretty side streets in Zagreb. There’s a lot to discover by aimlessly walking around town.

Franjo Tudman International Airport
The international airport is quiet during this time of the pandemic.

Requirements to enter Zagreb during the pandemic:
I traveled by train from Slovenia to Zagreb. Our train stopped at Dobova in Zagreb where three sets of border officers boarded the train to check our identification documents. The first group announced that they were checking our IDs and I showed them my passport and CDC vaccination card from my seat. They didn’t stop to check and I thought, that was easy. The next officer came and took my passport and ran it through a hand held tracking machine then stamped my passport and said goodbye. So I thought great, it’s done. But a little while later, another officer came by and asked for my passport and called a number, gave my name and passport number and waited. Then he left looking for a stamp as I agonized if he would be back before the train leaves. He came back and stamped my passport again. The officers only gave a perfunctory check to my vaccination card. I also anticipated they would ask for the health questionnaire form which I had completed online but had not submitted because I needed clarification on some of the questions. But they didn’t ask for the form. Nor did they ask for proof that I had paid my hotel in full. This is one of the requirements for entry as well.

The train from Ljubljana to Zagreb is €9 one way in second class. There is no first class section. Thankfully there were few passengers and I had the cabin to myself. There was no air conditioning in the train and as it was a hot day, you can imagine how hot it was inside the train. I had the window open and it provided some relief from the heat. It’s a 2 1/2 hour ride to Zagreb from Ljubljana.

Where to stay:
Best Western Premier Hotel Astoria
Petrinjska ul. 71, Zagreb
Convenient location within walking distance to old town and train station. Quiet area a block from King Tomislav Square.  One of the best restaurants in Zagreb, Mime’s, is across the street from hotel and there are two grocery stores down the street. Friendly and helpful staff.
Where to eat:
Bistro Na Dolcu
Dolac 2, Zagreb
This sumptuous meal and a soda cost 120 kuna or €16.22. I sat in the terrace area and enjoyed my succulent bass and potatoes/spinach dinner. The service was attentive and friendly.


Mime’s Restaurant
Petrinjska 44, Zagreb 
I ordered their Risotto with truffles and prawns and a side dish of steamed vegetables. It was all very good. The prawns were the perfect foil to the risotto and the veggies were fresh and lightly crisp. Attentive and friendly service. I sat indoors as the terrace seating is with bar stools. Not as comfortable as regular seating. The total for the dinner was 114 kuna including beverage.

How to get to the airport:
The taxi fare to the airport is fixed at 100 kuna. The hotel staff made the arrangement for me. There was no traffic although it was a workday and 7:30 in the morning. 

*****

Images by TravelswithCharie 


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