San Sebastian Minor Basilica

Following the destruction of its three churches due to fire and earthquakes, the parish priest of San Sebastián in the 1880s, Esteban Martinez, sought the help of a Spanish architect named Genaro Palacios to build a church that could withstand an earthquake. Palacios’ idea was to use steel to construct the new church and make it both earthquake and fire resistant. To this end, prefabricated steel sections were ordered from Belgium which were then sent to the Philippines in 1888 in eight separate shipments. Belgian workers traveled to Manila to put together all these sections on-site. Pope Leo XIII raised the status of San Sebastián to Minor Basilica in 1890, a year before the new church was consecrated in August 1891.

Steel is not without its share of problems. Rust and corrosion are expected of a structure that is over a century old especially when it is close to Manila Bay. Interventions have been undertaken throughout the years to preserve the Basilica and the latest of this is ongoing. You can see the restoration work from the images I’ve posted here.

Outdoor wall facing the garden

In the photo above, you can observe traces of rust on this outer wall facing the garden.

Vaulted ceiling

San Sebastián was built in the Gothic Revival style. The characteristics of Gothic architecture include pointed arches, vaulted ceilings, large stained glass windows, flying buttresses and ornate decoration. You’ll find all these attributes in the Basilica with the exception of the flying buttresses. The Basilica is a much lighter structure because it is made of metal, not stone and masonry.

The steel columns and walls were painted to create the illusion that they are made of marble and jasper.

This is the outside wall. There are no flying buttresses but there are vertical columns that support the structure.

Main altar with Our Lady of Mount Carmel

The statue of Our Lady was given by the Carmelite Sisters from Mexico in 1617 and survived the ravages of fire and earthquakes throughout the centuries. Sadly its head was stolen in 1975. At the top of the retablo is a spire and inside that is the statue of San Sebastián, patron saint of the Basilica. This retablo was made in the Philippines.

Side altar of St. Joseph

Notice the two figures on the wall behind the altar. These are trompe l’oeil paintings of saints and martyrs by Lorenzo Rocha who together with Isabelo Tampingco and Felix Martinez, painted the walls, columns and ceiling of the Basilica.

Confessional boxes

The confessional boxes were also designed to conform with the Gothic style. Notice the large door in the background with its pointed arches.

The pulpit is flanked by two stained glass windows depicting the Stations of the Cross. These windows were made by the Heinrich Oidtmann Company, a stained glass company in Germany. Note the pointed arches of the windows.

This Nativity scene is a fine example of the stained glass windows in the Basilica.

See the beautiful details of the choir’s underside.

The garden

San Sebastián Basilica Minor is the only steel church in the Philippines and possibly in East Asia. Notre Dame du Travail in Paris is the only other church I’m aware of that uses steel but only with the columns and vaulted ceiling within the church. Its exterior façade is not made of steel. San Sebastián is truly unique and worthy of its designation as a National Historic Landmark and a National Cultural Treasure . These recognitions are important for the continued conservation of the structure so future generations of Filipinos can appreciate this legacy from the 19th century.

How to get there:

Pasaje del Carmen Street, Quiapo, Manila

I took Uber from Makati to Quiapo during early afternoon hours and didn't encounter heavy traffic. The ride costs around $10.00, a reasonable price considering the distance. You can also take the MRT Yellow Line 3 at SM Makati Ayala Center to Taft Avenue. Walk from there to the Edsa station of the LRT Green Line 1, direction Carriedo Station. It's a short walk from the station to the Church.

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Images by TravelswithCharie

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