The Pyramid of Tirana
My guide, Eddy, didn’t show me around Tirana until a few days after I arrived. We joked about how I’ve been all over Albania, North Macedonia and Kosovo without once setting foot on Skanderbeg Square. But it was a good thing we waited because we had a leisurely time exploring the city center on foot without the traffic that plagues the city on a weekday.
I must confess that I didn’t expect much from Tirana beyond the bunkers. The videos I’d watched of the city didn’t impress me so I was pleasantly surprised by all the things I saw and especially the new, modern architecture. I would definitely want to stay close to Skanderbeg Square on my next visit so I can spend more time exploring and sitting at one of many outdoor cafés near the repurposed Tirana Castle.
While we’re on the subject of confession, I have another confession to make. That is, I was wowed by Albania and I’m now a fan of this beautiful Balkan country. From Berat in the south to Shkoder in the northwest to the eastern border with North Macedonia and the mountain terrain to the north, I saw many stirring landscapes, savored simple but tasty cuisine, met warm people and got blessed with sunny skies. After years of planning my visit to Albania, I’m glad I finally got there and had a great time!
Let me show you some of the places we visited on our walking tour starting with the controversial pyramid.
Studio boxes in the Pyramid Complex
The Pyramid was a project conceived to serve as a museum for the legacy of Enver Hoxha who was the ruler of Albania from 1944 to 1985. It was opened in 1988, three years after his death. It was the most expensive structure in Albania during a period when Albanians were living in poverty. After the fall of communism in 1991, the Pyramid wore various hats including as radio station, a NATO base during the Kosovo war, a conference center and then left to languish. It was repurposed in recent years to house TUMO Tirana, a non profit after-school program which teaches young people in various subjects like software, robotics and animation. They use some of these colorful boxes as classrooms. There are also cafés and spaces for workshops and cultural activities.
Stone Pine Trees, 1939
If this reminds you of Rome, it’s because these pine trees came from Italy.
The Cloud Installation, Sou Fujimoto
The Cloud was commissioned for the 2013 Serpentine Gallery Pavilion at Kensington Gardens in London. The installation incorporates the artist’s desire to build an interactive space. Steel beams create an illusion of a cloud while the transparency of the structure allows the outdoors into the interior space. The Cloud was moved to Tirana from London in 2016. It is on Bulevardi Dëshmorët e Kombit, a short walk from Skanderbeg Square.
Mother Teresa
Namazgah Mosque
BunkArt2
Shëtitorja Murat Toptani Street
One of the fun things to do in Tirana is to sit at an outdoor café and let the world go by. There are many of these cafés in the city center. This particular street leads to the renovated Tirana Castle.
Remaining wall of the Fortress of Justinian or Tirana Castle
History of Tirana Castle and the Toptani Familly
Inside the former Tirana Castle
This once abandoned space has been transformed into a restaurant and shopping venue in the heart of the city.
Former Tirana Castle
Mother Teresa (St. Teresa of Calcutta) was an Albanian born Catholic nun who founded the Missionaries for Charity which helped the poor, the orphans, the sick and the dying, particularly in India. She devoted her life to helping people in need. Mother Teresa is revered throughout Albania, Kosovo and North Macedonia as she is around the world and there are monuments and churches dedicated to her in the region. This particular monument is in the courtyard of St. Paul’s Cathedral on Bulevardi Zhan d’Ark. St. Teresa was canonized by the Catholic Church in 2016.
Bridge over the Lana Stream
Lana Stream and Downtown One
Notice the high rise in the background. It’s the new Downtown One building which you’ll see below.
Downtown One Mixed Use Building
This new high rise building features cantilevered bay windows which form an abstracted map of Albania. It is set to open in 2024.
At the time of my visit in late April of this year, this mosque was still under construction. When completed, it will be the largest mosque in the Balkans with a capacity of 4,500 people. In comparison, the Et’hem Bey Mosque on Skanderbeg Square can only hold 60 persons.
Skanderbeg Square and the National Museum
Opera House
Monument to Skanderbeg
Skanderbeg is the national hero of Albania and Kosovo. He fought tirelessly to drive the Ottoman Empire out of the country.
Et’hem Bey Mosque and Kulla e Sahatit Clock Tower
The clock tower was built in 1822 and was the tallest structure in Tirana during that period. It is 115 ft. tall and was built by Et’hem Bey Mollaj, who also worked on the Et’hem Bey Mosque next door.
Eyes of Tirana
This high rise on Skanderbeg Square is one of many new modern buildings transforming the skyline of Tirana. Its construction has become controversial for exceeding the number of floors it had been allowed to build.
Municipal Hall
There was a long queue outside this bunker in late afternoon so we continued our walk around the city hoping that when we were done, we could enter the museum easily but it didn’t happen.
These bunkers (there are thousands of them) were built during the time of Enver Hoxha as a shelter in the event of a nuclear attack. BunkArt2 was specifically built for the elite police and ministry of interior staff.
Bunk Art2 entrance
These photos displayed on the dome of the bunker are a few of the victims of political persecutions during Hoxha’s regime. Note: there’s an entrance fee.
Ministry of Infrastructure and Energy
If you have time to take day trips outside of Tirana, here are some places to check out:
North Macedonia: https://www.travelswithcharie.com/2024/09/lakeside-views.html
Albania travel essentials:
Albania requires no visa for U.S. citizens for stays up to one year. Passport is required with at least 3 months of remaining validity. Check this link for current information: https://al.usembassy.gov/entering-and-residing/
Currency is lek. The exchange rate as of this writing is USD$1=89.09 lek.
Electrical outlet: standard voltage is 230 volts and frequency is 50 Hz. You’ll need a Type F electrical plug.
Where to stay:
Mercure Hotel Tirana Street 29 Nentori
This is a new hotel and part of the Accor chain. It’s not in the city center but it worked for me because I was out sightseeing everyday with a private guide. A generous breakfast was included and the servers were welcoming and attentive. The hotel has both a restaurant and a bar.
Where to eat:
Allishverishi by RozafaRruga Kostandin Kristoforidhi, Tirana
Come to this restaurant for the food and the decor which caricatures various local personalities.
Ali Kali Restaurant
Plazh, Rruga et Pyllit, Divjakë
You’ll need a ride to get there. It’s at the Divjakë Karavasta National Park south of Tirana and it’s worth a try. All you can eat grilled fish (there are three or four kinds of fresh fish served daily) and shrimps with salad, potatoes and dessert for only €17 (this was the price in April 2023).
How to get around:
Tirana city center is compact and walking is the best way to discover all it has to offer. Wait till late afternoon to start your walk as it can get very hot even in late April.
I traveled around Albania with my tour guide, Eddy Fej Zulla from Albania on tour with Eddy. He was well recommended by a friend. Eddy is a careful driver, flexible with plans and itineraries and knows the best places to sightsee and dine. He is also thoughtful when offering and introducing local delicacies from each of the places we toured. Whether you’re traveling solo or with family/friends, check with Eddy about your sightseeing plans. You may reach him through WhatsApp 355 69 919 9085. Or contact him by email at edisonfejzulla1@gmail.com.
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Images by TravelswithCharie